Monday, July 18, 2005

Red Square

“Capitalism,” was repeated several times by the man on the podium as he raised his hand furiously into the air. I could only understand one word, but the crowd’s applause told me that they were in agreement. It was my last day in Moscow, the only day I had to see the city. I walked through the city center to catch a glimpse of the Kremlin and Red Square before I had to fly to London that afternoon.

Earlier, when I asked for directions, the woman at the hotel informed me that there was a communist rally in Red Square. As I came upon the city center I was drawn to the faces of the people who were not embracing capitalism, in a country where capitalism is flourishing. They gathered together in commonality but didn’t seem to be fighting for anything. There was little excitement in the crowd’s mood. They were quiet and composed. What I found in the faces was solemn remorse. Faces embracing the past as a patriot embraces the familiar, not because it is something decent, but maybe because it was something familiar.

Pictures of old leaders and war relics dangled on strings around their necks or otherwise displayed by the demonstrators. It quickly became apparent that any thread of passion displayed was for celebrating the past. The future was upon them and the energy exuded from the crowd was not going to change it. The rally was meant to inspire and generate enthusiasm for communism, but it was more of remembrance or a memorial and a way to find solace amidst the change. People politely listening to speakers showed their patriotism by wearing old uniforms, carrying flags and displaying mementos.

On the other side of the square, they were celebrating a holiday, the anniversary of the day that the Soviet Union defeated Germany in World War II. D-day.





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